Preparation:
Suit up for safety… Gloves, protective eyewear, mask (when mixing lye), long sleeves, long pants, and close toed shoes.
Prepare your lye solution by measuring 252g of distilled or de-ionised water into a heat safe container. In a separate container measure out 136g of sodium hydroxide. Add your sodium hydroxide to your water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and mix thoroughly but gently until your lye is completely dissolved.
Add your premix oils into your Slow Cooker and put it on high until all your oils are completely melted and clear.
Instructions:
Once all your oils are melted and warm in the Slow Cooker, you can add your Lye Water Solution. It does not have to cool down before you add it, as the soap will be cooking for at least full hour anyway. Once you add your Lye Water Solution, use your stick blender to blend the soap batter. You can blend to light, medium, or thick trace. This will make no difference in the end bar of soap. Once your soap has been blended, turn the slow cooker to the low setting and cook for an hour. Keep a close eye on your soap during this process. You may opt to leave your soap and not stir and open it during this time… many Hot Process soap makers do this, and that is fine. I however like to keep an eye on it, stir occasionally (every 10 – 15 minutes or so) and check on the different stages the soap goes through during the cooking process.
Champagne Bubbles Stage: This is where the soap starts cooking. You can see small bubbles simmering in some glistening clear liquid. The soap almost looks like its separating. Give it a quick stir, making sure nothing sticks to the side and dries out quicker than the rest of the soap. Cover and leave it again.
Applesauce Stage: The soap becomes a little thicker and almost grainy looking, like applesauce. This stage does not last long and if you miss it, do not worry, your soap will be fine.
Soft Mashed Potato stage: This is the next stage and your soap will look slightly translucent and almost fluffy. This happens after about an hour cooking time. It may take a little longer, even up to 1 and a half hours depending on the amount of heat, different recipes etc. At this stage, your soap is fully cooked. You can switch off your Slow Cooker (or remove from heat) and add in your colourants and fragrance oil (optional).
Remember, Hot Process soap is not like cold process soap, it is thick, and the end bar is often a little rustic looking. You will have to spoon your soap into the mould and tap it down vigorously. You also need to hurry, because as it cools down it will solidify quickly. Focus on getting the majority of the soap in the mould and don’t worry too much about the edges of the pot (the sides usually have some dry pieces and those don’t always want to stick to the rest of the soap) You can get those out later and roll into a little ball and use as a hand soap if you want to. With gloved hands, smooth out or texture the top of your soap as desired. Remember that the soap will be hot, so be careful. As soon as the soap has cooled down, you can unmould and cut your soap into bars. This soap is fully saponified and technically safe to use immediately, however 4 – 6 weeks cure time is still recommended to form a harder bar of soap that will last longer in the shower/bath.
COLD PROCESS RECIPES
- PREMIX #3 RECIPE
Our Basic beginner premix oils contain a 1000g of oils consisting of the following oils including 5% superfat:
- Coconut Oil: 24%
- Olive Oil: 44%
- Palm Oil: 33%
- For this recipe we will use a 33% lye concentration.
Ingredients needed to make this soap:
- 1x Premix Recipe 1: Basic Beginner recipe
- 287g Distilled/De-ionised water
- 141g Sodium Hydroxide
- Colorant (optional)
- Fragrance oil or essential oil (optional)
Equipment needed to make this soap:
- Mixing bowl/Jug (2liter at least)
- Stick Blender
- Spatula
- Separate heat safe container for mixing sodium hydroxide.
- Soap mould (this recipe makes roughly 1458.63g of soap and will fit the purple silicone wooden box mould perfectly)
- Infrared thermometer
Preparation:
Suit up for safety… Gloves, protective eyewear, mask (when mixing lye), long sleeves, long pants, and close toed shoes.
Prepare your lye solution by measuring 287g of distilled or de-ionised water into a heat safe container. In a separate container measure out 141g of sodium hydroxide. Add your sodium hydroxide to your water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and mix thoroughly but gently until your lye is completely dissolved.
Place the sealed premix bag into a pot of hot water over medium heat on the stove until all the oils are melted. Your oils should be clear when everything is properly melted. Pour your oils into your mixing bowl/jug.
Instructions:
You should wait until your oils and lye solution reach around 32 degrees Celsius. Your lye and oils do not have to be the exact same temperature but should be close and no hotter than 33 degrees Celsius as hotter temperatures can accelerate trace and cause your batter to heat up too quickly or even overheat.
When you reach the correct temperature, you can add your lye solution into your oils carefully, taking care not to splash or cause bubbles. Take your stick blender and place it into the oils. Gently shake it around to release any trapped air underneath it, if not done, it will cause air pockets in your soap. Now stick blend on low for only about 10 seconds, moving the stick blender around to make sure your blend evenly. Depending on your preference, you can blend to emulsion, light, medium or thick trace. At this point you will want to add any colourant or fragrance if you prefer. Blend these in by hand and pour you batter into your mould. Tap your mould on the ground a few times to release any trapped air. You can texture the top using a spoon or swirl with a skewer. You can spray the top with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to prevent soda ash and leave uncovered. Or you can insulate with cardboard boxes and towels or blankets to force gel phase.
Wait 18-24 hours to un mould your soap, cut into bars and let cure for 4-6 weeks before selling, using, or giving as gifts.
Note: Always be cautious when working with melted bases. Keep out of reach of children & pets. Own testing / recipes is required.