INGREDIENTS NAME FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS
OTHER INFORMATION ( STORAGE )
Urea
Zinc Oxide USP grade
Reflects sunlight (UVB rays)
Has soothing effects and can be used for skin irritations
Whitening effect on skin therefore also used as coverage for makeup products		 Maximum 5 -25 % Water Phase Sun care products
soothing skin care products
diaper creams, mineral makeup.		 Store light-protected at
a cool and dry place
Hyaluronic Acid Most powerful moisturizer and humectant available
Provides smoothness and softening to the skin
Can reduce the appearance of wrinkles
Ideal ingredient after skin peels		 0.1 – 2.0 % Water Phase Hydrating gels, moisturizing
creams & lotions,
anti-aging & anti-wrinkle products		 Shelf-life up to 3 years if stored protected from humidity and microbial contamination.
Lauric Acid Improved skin cell turnover for smoother, more even skin
Fades hyperpigmentation
Can help with acne
Boosts moisturizing & our NMF		 0.1 – 2.0 % Water Phase Hydrating gels, moisturizing
creams & lotions,
anti-aging & anti-wrinkle products
Shelf-life up to 3 years if stored protected from humidity and microbial contamination.
L – Ascorbic Acid Potent antioxidant
Can improve appearance of aged and fragile skin
Widely used as add-on ingredient in skin-lightening products
Antioxidant effect can be increased by combining L-ascorbic acid		 final concentration 0.5-10 % Water Phase Lotions, creams, sun care & after sun products, shampoos, makeup products (e.g. lipsticks)
prinkle vitamin C powder slowly to the water under constant stirring to assure that everything dissolves completely. Should be formulated at pH 4-5 for best results. For external use only.
Vitamin E Acetate Provides excellent antioxidant activity
Has moisturizing, soothing, and calming properties
Can improve the appearance of aged skin making		 0.1-1.0% Cool Down Phase All kinds of skin care products, sun care products, makeup products, hair after-treatments preparations.
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
Squalane Excellent skin-penetrating qualities
Medium spreading qualities
Non irritating, non-allergenic, hypo-comedogenic		 1-10% Oil Phase Skin creams, lotions, hair care, massage oils, makeup products and lip care.
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
Allantoin Powder Soothes and alleviates skin-irritations
Has moisturizing and hydrating effects
Often used to minimize pore size
Has anti-aging properties		 0.2-2% Water Phase Lotions, creams, sun care & after sun products, shampoos, scalp rinses, shower gels, lip & baby care products.
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Salicylic Acid Can be used for skin peels,
anti-dandruff products
and in products for oily,
acneic and/or blemished skin		 0.5-3% Water Phase Peels and exfoliant products. Anti-acne products (max. 2%). Anti-dandruff products (max 3%). Wart-removing products (max. concentration depends on type of plaster vehicle used).
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Sulphur Powder great absorbing power
useful for greasy, blemished,
impure and irritated skin		 0.1 – 1.5 % Water Phase Peels and exfoliant products. Anti-acne products (max. 2%). Anti-dandruff products (max 3%). Wart-removing products (max. concentration depends on type of plaster vehicle used).
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Oleic Acid emollient, moisturizer and co-emulsifier Recommended use level 1-5%. Water Phase Skin and hair care products, color cosmetics
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Colloidal Oatmeal Helps to relieve dry and itchy skin
Soothes stressed, blemished and irritated skin		 Typical use level 5-30% Sprinkle into cold or hot water and mix well Creams, lotions, bath treatments, shower gels, shampoos, pet care products.
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
Isopropyl Miristate Superior emollient for non-greasy bath
Gives gloss and shine to hair
Resistant to oxidation		 Typical use level 1-20% Oil Phase Creams, lotions, hand creams, shampoo, shower gels, makeup removers, powders and foundations.
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
Soy Lecithin Natural emulsifier and dispersing agent
Excellent water binding ability (prevents moisture loss)
Good emollient, anti-sticking and refatting properties
Controls viscosity		 Typical use level is 0.5 – 5% Oil Phase Lotions, creams, ointments, salves, body washes, shampoos, sun care products & after-sun products, body butter, makeup products.
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
Kojic Acid Skin-lightening effect by inhibiting melanin formation
Promotes skin lightening and helps establishing an even skin tone on all skin types
Minimizes liver spots
Often used also to preserve or stabilize colors in cosmetic products		 1-3% Add to warm (25-40°C/77-104°F) water phase of formula. All kinds of skin-lightening products including lotions, creams, fluids, makeup products.
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Keratin NFPF Revitalizes the hairs natural protective layer and rebuilds tensile strength
Returns elasticity and reduces breakage
Reduces hair damage from harsh chemicals		 Recommended use level: 1-5% Water Phase All kinds of hair care products including shampoos, hair conditioners, hair balms, hair pomades and also skin care products including lotions and creams.
Store away from direct sunlight at a dry place at room temperature
Vitamin A palmetate Has potent rejuvenating properties
Can improve appearance of aged and blemished skin
Ideal for advanced treatment of pre-conditioned skin		 Recommended use level: 0.1 – 1.0 % Water Phase All kinds of skin care products (primarily rejuvenating, nourishing & after sun products).
Store refrigerated (4-8°C / 39-46°F)
Benzoic Acid Broad spectrum preservative effective against bacteria, yeast and mold
Active in a wide pH range (best between pH 3-6.5)		 0.5-1.2%. Add to formulations under hot conditions (up to 95oC/203oF). All kinds of skin & hair care products (incl. emulsions, aqueous gels), sun care products, makeup products.
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
Niacinamide Powder Has soothing activity useful for blemished skin
Can improve the appearance of aged, hyperpigmented and photodamaged skin		 Typical use level is 1-6 % Water Phase

Avoid adding to an acidic product, ideal final pH of product should be 6

 Products for blemished skin, lotions, creams, sun care & after sun products, makeup products, anti-aging products.
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Glycolic Acid Widely used to rejuvenate the skin by encouraging the shedding of old surface skin cells Typical use level is between 1-3 % Water Phase Peels, creams, lotions, masks, cleansers. Due to it’s acidity the final product needs to be tested for safe pH. Optimal pH range from 3.5-5.0. Some over the counter products, after adding glycolic acid, will separate as a result of the low pH, and need to be stabilized.
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Isododecane Has a weightless feel on skin and enhances spreadability of products due to its low viscosity and density
Helps prevent evaporation of water from the skin		 2-15% Oil Phase Mascara, eyeliner, creams, lotions, hair care, conditioners, hairsprays, perfumes.
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
Alpha Arbutin Powder Promotes skin lightening and an even skin tone on all skin types
Reduces the degree of skin tanning after UV exposure		 Recommended concentration 0.2-2% Water Phase All kinds of skin-lightening products including lotions, creams, makeup products.
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Citric acid Acidulant (useful to adjust pH of products to make them more acid / less alkaline)
Chelating effect (neutralizes minerals to enhance activity of antioxidants & preservatives)		 For safe use do not use at >10% or at pH <3.5 Cool Down Phase Creams, lotions, shampoos, shower gels, bath bombs/fizzes (combined with sodium bicarbonate).
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Natural Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Effective thickener of emulsions, surfactants systems, and gels
Often used as foam stabilizer and anti-caking agent (prevents lump formation)		 Typical final use level 0.5-3%. Oil Phase Shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, body washes, shower gels.
Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
Salicylic Acid Can be used for skin peels, anti-dandruff products, and in products for oily, acneic and/or blemished skin
Ideal for making products that need higher concentrations of salicylic acid		 Typical use level 0.5-3% Typically, it is added to the water phase of formulas but it is only slightly soluble in water Peels and exfoliant products. Anti-acne products (max. 2%). Anti-dandruff products (max 3%). Wart-removing products (max. concentration depends on type of plaster vehicle used).
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
AHA Fruit Acid Extract Excellent exfoliant shedding off the outermost layer of skin cells (corneocytes)
Has good effectiveness against blemished skin		 Use level: 1-4% depending on skin tolerance. Water Phase Anti-aging & anti-wrinkle creams & lotions, peeling gels, exfoliants.
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Lactic acid Very useful to rejuvenate the skin by encouraging the shedding of old surface skin cells
Can reduce the appearance of fine lines, irregular pigmentation, age spots		 Typical use level is between 1-20%. Water Phase

Avoid adding to an acidic product, ideal final pH of product should be 6

 Peels, creams, lotions, masks, cleansers. Due to it’s acidity the final product needs to be tested for safe pH. Optimal pH range from 3.5-5.0. Some over the counter products, after adding lactic acid, will separate as a result of the low pH, and need to be stabilized.
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Glycolic Acid Powder Can reduce the appearance of fine lines, irregular pigmentation, age spots & decreases enlarged pores
Very useful in exfoliating products as alpha-hydroxy acid peel, or in creams & lotions at a lower		 Typical use level is between 1- 5 % Water Phase Peels, creams, lotions, masks, cleansers.
Store light-protected at a cool and dry place
Aloe Vera 200x extract powder Potent moisturizer, invigorating and soothing agent
Has been shown to improve the appearance of aging and dry skin
Skin feels more resilient and supple		 Typical use level 1-10% Water Phase All skin care products for dry skin, soothing creams & lotions, sun care and after-sun products, shampoos and conditioners for dry hair.
Store refrigerated (4-8oC / 39-46oF)

HAIR CARE INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS NAME FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Excellent tensor and film-forming properties that increases firmness of the skin
Nourishes, softens the hair and makes the hair appear volumized
D Panthenol Gel Penetrates readily into skin & hair
Has good moisturizing and softening properties
Soothes irritated and blemished skin
Keratin NFPF Revitalizes the hairs natural protective layer and rebuilds tensile strength
Returns elasticity and reduces breakage
Reduces hair damage from harsh chemicals
Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk Provides effective conditioning, softening, and smoothing properties to the hair
Provides shine and anti-frizz to the hair and improves damaged hair

HUMECTANT
INGREDIENTS NAME FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Vegetable Glycerin Effective humectant and moisturizer attracting water to the intercellular space of the skin
Protects the lipids of skin cells
Sodium Lactate
Has slight skin-lightening effects. Useful to adjust pH.

LIPSTICK MAKING INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Lipstick Base Natural & botanically derived emollient & lubricant
Can be used as substitute for petrolatum
Enhances consistency and viscosity (e.g. ideal base for lip care products)
Lipstick Base Can be used as is or customized further with your own additional ingredients
Excellent emollient

SILICONES INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Cyclomethicone Rapidly evaporates without cooling the skin. Leaves the skin dry, smooth and silky
Ideal carrier for makeup, other color cosmetic skin creams, deodorants and stick products without the oily feel
Dimethicone 350 dx Used for its chemical stability in anti-foams, color cosmetics and hair care products
Takes out the whitening of creams and lotions when rubbed into the skin and gives a non-greasy, dry feel

SOLVENTS INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Propylene Glycol Effective humectant and wetting agent preventing water loss in products and in the skin
Increases skin permeability of active ingredients as it penetrates into the outermost skin layers
Iso Propyl Alcohol
Sorbitol 70 Effective moisturizing properties (avoids moisture loss)
Stabilizes gels and provides good clarity
Has skin softening and conditioning effects

THICKENER INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Stearic Acid Acts as good emulsion stabilizing agent
Has effective thickening properties
Provides a soft, pearly and cooling feel on the skin. Often used in lubricants.
Xanthan Gum Non-gelling thickener (but binds water) and viscosity enhancer
Provides volume and enhances foam in surfactants systems
Stabilizes emulsions
Has lubricant properties
Cetyl Alcohol Non-gelling thickener and viscosity enhancer (also in water-free products like lipsticks)
Has co-emulsifying properties if concentration is higher than 5 %
GUAR Gum Effective non-gelling thickener and viscosity enhancer
Can boost foam when together with surfactants
Has additional conditioning effect due to the quaternary polymer structure as compared to regular guar gum
Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 polymer
Tapioca Starch / Flour Widely used as thickener and viscosity enhancer in various personal care products
Excellent texturizer in face powders providing smooth and silky velvety feel
Isopropyl Miristate Superior emollient for non-greasy bath, body and baby oils
Lubricant and compression aid for pressed powders
Light & non-tacky emollient for creams and lotions.
Carbomer 940 Acts as powerful, ph-sensitive gelling thickener useful for making clear gels
Stabilizes emulsions
INGREDIENTS FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Beeswax Beads Self-emulsifying wax for making stable oil-in-water emulsions that can contain a high concentration of oils or lipophilic active ingredient
Provides enhanced emolliency
Lanolin Non-gelling thickener and emollient
Ideal ingredient for lipsticks and other stick cosmetics
Provides smooth and soft feel
Increases viscosity in emulsions
Candellia Wax Non-gelling thickener, viscosity enhancer and plasticizer
Compatible with most natural and synthetic waxes and resins
Extraordinary film-forming properties
Carnauba Wax Non-gelling thickener, viscosity and consistency enhancer
Provides good texture and stability due to high melting point
Has emollient and moisturizing properties
Glyceryl Stearate Potent emulsifier for making o/w emulsions
Supports the consistency and the oil binding capacity and can also be used as co-emulsifier
Jojoba Esters Flakes Gentle but effective exfoliation without the abrasiveness of other exfoliants
Non-occlusive and non-commedogenic
Very mild and suitable for sensitive skin
INGREDIENTS FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Soap crafters Kaolin Clay Offers great spreadability with a very pleasant skin feel
Supports the natural defense mechanism of the skin
Has mild cleansing & exfoliating properties
Absorbs excessive oils, and detoxifies effectively
Soap Crafters Bentonite Clay Used as thickener, absorbent, filler, texturizer and binder in various skin and hair care products and color cosmetics
Has thickening and suspending properties (e.g suspends pigments) and effectively thickens and stabilizes
Kaolin Clay A Grade Offers great spreadability with a very pleasant skin feel
Supports the natural defense mechanism of the skin
Has mild cleansing & exfoliating properties
Absorbs excessive oils, and detoxifies effectively
INGREDIENTS FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Lauryl Glucoside Very mild surfactant blend offering excellent ph-independent foaming and cleansing properties
Can replace sulfates
Low pH stability – performs well in salicylic acid formulations
Decyl Glucoside Very mild surfactant compatible with anionic, non-ionic, and amphoteric surfactants (except cationic surfactants)
Can be used for amide-free and sulfate-free
Provides great cleansing and foaming properties
Cocamidopropyl Betaine Very mild co-surfactant compatible with anionic, non-ionic, cationic surfactants
Useful also as primary surfactant as it has good cleansing and foam-boosting properties
Pure Castile Soap Liquid soap with great emollient and moisturizing qualities
Can be combined with surfactants to give them a moisturizing feel and greater foaming properties
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
(SCI) Flakes		 Excellent foam density and foam stability
Has very good lime soap dispersion and surface activity
Leaves no soap scum as it is very hard water tolerant
Compatible with soaps and anionic, non-ionic, and amphoteric surfactant
SLSA powder
CocamidylPropyl Betaine Very mild co-surfactant compatible with anionic, non-ionic, cationic surfactants
Useful also as primary surfactant as it has good cleansing and foaming properties
Slight viscosity enhancer
African Black Soap Flakes
SLS Powder Excellent foam and viscosity enhancer
Good cleansing properties
Can be used together with other surfactants
Provides high foam, good lather, and excellent detergent properties
INGREDIENTS FUNCTIONS / BENEFITS USAGE RATE FORMULATION STAGE PRODUCTS OTHER INFORMATION
Vitamin E Oil Potent antioxidant activity especially in cosmetic products but is less stable than dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate
Ideal to stabilize oils and fats in cosmetic products
Castor Oil Excellent emollient leaving the skin soft and smooth
Good hair conditioner making the hair looked nourished and shiny
Widely used as moisturizer and lubricant in lip care products to add shine and luster
Palm Oil
Coconut Oil Precious emollient leaving the skin and hair soft, smooth and conditioned
Lubricant for massage oils
Cocoa Butter High-quality skin softener, emollient and conditioner
Used as film forming agent, non-gelling thickener, and moisturizer in various applications
Effective emulsion stabilizer
Shea Butter Potent moisturizer and emollient providing effective skin protection against environmental stress factors
Has anti-irritant and soothing properties and improves the appearance of aging skin
Sweet Almond Oil Effective emollient leaves the skin soft, smooth and conditioned
Good nourishing and revitalizing effect
Penetrates and moisturizes the skin very well
Ideal for irritated and blemished skin
Grapeseed Oil Effective, non-greasy emollient with good skin absorption
Leaves the skin soft, smooth and conditioned
Has a mild toning effect
Widely used in applications for blemished, oily and impure skin
Jojoba Oil Precious moisturizer and emollient
Prevents transdermal water loss and retains moisture
Good lubricant without leaving a greasy film on the skin as it penetrates into the skin
Regular application can reduce the appearance of fine lines
Olive Oil
Pure olive oil characterized by a high level of oleic acid, is a popular oil derived from the fruit of the olive tree.
Rosehip Oil
Has toning, soothing and firming properties
African Cocoa Butter High-quality skin softener, emollient and conditioner
Used as film forming agent, non-gelling thickener, and moisturizer in various applications
Mango Butter Highly effective emollient and skin nutrient due to its unique softening properties and the high level of non-saponifiables
Ideal for dry, damaged and aging skin
Avocado Oil Nourishing oil for skin and hair care
Particularly high content of vitamins A, B, D and E and essential fatty acids
Moisturizes and softens skin and hair
Well suited for dry skin, dry hair and damaged hair
Macadamia Nut Oil Effective emollient and fragrance fixative
Gives a rich skin feel and is especially suited for heavy creams and sun care products
Wheatgerm Oil
Argan Oil Valuable natural emollient with excellent nutritional benefits for skin and hair
Has high content of unsaturated fatty acids, phenols and carotens
Mineral Oil
Avocado Butter High-quality emollient and moisturizer
Natural antioxidant properties
Has soothing and anti-irritant properties
Liquid Aloe Gel Features excellent nutrients to revitalize all skin types
Leaves skin renewed, hydrated and soft
Organic Neem Oil
Has good moisturizing, humectant and soothing properties.
Apricot Kernel Oil Excellent carrier oil for all kinds of skin care products and color cosmetics
Has good moisturizing and water-retaining properties
Moringa Oil
Arnica Oil Helps stimulating the skin for a fresh and rejuvenated complexion
Widely used to soothe irritated skin and moisturize dry skin
Hydrogenated Castor Oil Excellent emollient leaving the skin soft and smooth
Good hair conditioner making the hair looked nourished and shiny
Widely used as moisturizer and lubricant in lip care products to add shine and luster
Lanolin Oil
Macadamia Butter Effective emollient with great moisturizing and smoothing properties. Improve skin elasticity.
No tacky or greasy feel on the skin.
Very useful in hair formulas due to its naturally glossy appearance and emollient repair effect.
Safflower Oil
Black Castor Oil Excellent emollient leaving the skin soft and smooth
Good hair conditioner making the hair looked nourished and shiny
Widely used as moisturizer and lubricant in lip care products to add shine and luster
Baobab Oil Rich, premium emollient for skin and hair care use due to its content of vitamins and omega fatty acids
Helps soothing dry and itchy skin
Sesame Oil Excellent emollient, good nourishing and moisturizing properties
Great carrier oil for various formulations
Ideal for blemished and impure skin
One of the most versatile oils for cosmetics due to its lightness, and odorless and nourishing properties
Hempseed Oil Effective emollient and nourishing ingredient
Gives a rich skin feel
Is beneficial for irritated and dry skin